Understanding Your Lighting Load: How to Plan for Beauty and Efficiency

Hitomo Construction Singapore (2010) Pte Ltd
Jul 17
3 min read

Updated: Sep 15

Lighting is often seen as a decorative decision — warm or cool? Cove or pendant? But behind the glow is something serious: your lighting load.

💡 “We added too many lights — now the circuit keeps tripping.”

💡 “My designer planned 50 spotlights, but the electrician says it’s too much.”

Here’s how to plan your lighting for looks, energy savings, and electrical safety, all at once.

1. What Is Lighting Load?

Lighting load refers to the total electrical demand from all light fixtures in your home. It’s measured in watts (W) or amperes (A).

⚠️ Every circuit on your DB board has a maximum capacity. Overloading = DB trip = safety hazard.

Example:

10 downlights × 12W each = 120W
Add 1 LED pendant (25W) + 1 strip light (30W) = ~175W
Circuit breaker may be rated at 6A (≈1,380W at 230V) — you’re fine now, but what if dimmers or transformers are added?

2. Break Down the House by Zones

The best way to plan lighting load is to group by zone + purpose:

Zone	Common Fixtures	Est. Load (W)
Living Room	Cove, spotlights, pendant	200 – 400
Dining Room	Pendant, downlights	150 – 300
Kitchen	Task lights, cove, bar	200 – 400
Bedroom	Downlights, wall sconce	100 – 200
Bathroom	Mirror, cove, heater lamp	100 – 250
Staircase	Wall light, step lights	50 – 150
Porch/Yard	IP-rated wall/floodlight	50 – 200
Garden	Spike, path, wall wash	100 – 300

📌 Plan separate circuits for:

Each floor or room group
Outdoor vs indoor lighting
High-load areas (e.g. chandeliers, LED strips with drivers)

3. Design-Driven, but Load-Conscious

Your interior designer may propose:

Cove lights in every room
Dual-color LED strips
Decorative fixtures with high output

That’s great — but make sure your M&E team sizes the circuit accordingly, especially if:

Dimmers are used (can affect load behavior)
12V transformers or drivers are added (which convert and add strain)
Multiple circuits are controlled by a single switch (e.g., mood scenes)

✅ Hitomo’s Tip: Ask for a “lighting load sheet” from your lighting supplier or ID. Your M&E team can then map that into your DB layout.

4. LED ≠ No Load

Modern LED fixtures are energy-efficient, but not zero-load.

Also:

Flickering can occur if the load is too low on dimmer switches
Poor quality LEDs may draw more current than labelled
Low-voltage LED strips need dedicated drivers, which add load

💡 Don’t assume “LED = no problem” — have every fixture type included in your electrical calculation.

5. Wiring and DB Planning: Do It Right From Start

Ask your builder or electrician to:

Create separate lighting circuits per area (not just per floor)
Use 6A or 10A MCBs for lighting (depending on load)
Label lighting circuits clearly (e.g., “L2 Master Bedroom Cove”)
Use junction boxes or distribution points for easier rewiring
Leave spare 1–2 circuits for future lighting upgrades

✅ Hitomo’s Approach to Lighting Load Planning

At Hitomo Construction, we:

Review your lighting plan + load sheet before slab casting
Assign correct MCBs + separate lighting zones
Coordinate with your lighting vendor or ID
Ensure neutral wires and dimmer compatibility
Plan for smart lighting integration if needed

Whether it’s a 5000K white for your kitchen, or warm ambient glows in your master, we make sure the wiring supports the experience — beautifully and safely.